LONDON — I’d been living here for a little more than a year when I finally went on a Jack the Ripper walking tour.
My partner’s mother was in town, and a stroll past the old haunts of the still-unidentified murderer of at least five women in the East End of London in 1888 seemed like the kind of activity that would please a visiting parent with a taste for the macabre. I didn’t really start to feel uneasy until we paused outside a pub called the Ten Bells, a place two of Jack the Ripper’s victims supposedly frequented. Decades ago, our guide informed us, the pub had sought to capitalize on its history by transforming into a Ripper-themed bar, complete with murder-spree-themed memorabilia and special drinks. He said this with a high-minded contempt that I found confusing. Did he really think we were doing something more morally defensible?
By the time we’d reached the last stop, it was clear that we weren’t. The juxtaposition of gratuitous gore and tour-guide patter finally became too much when, outside of a narrow alley, our guide passed around a photograph of the Ripper’s final victim, a woman named Mary Jane Kelly, taken by the police after her death. Her murder is unique, even among the Ripper killings, for its brutality; one by one, we studied her mutilated corpse, and I tried to forget that a few minutes before, the guide had made fun of her because after a brief stint in France, she’d supposedly begun giving her name as Marie Jeanette. I remember him batting his eyelashes as he said it, delivering the name in a coquettish falsetto.
There have long been efforts to try to change the way we talk about Jack the Ripper and how we treat his victims. Over the years, there have been various efforts at staging “alternative” Ripper tours, focused on the lives of the women he killed and not on the moments of their deaths. In 2015, there was an eruption of outrage after a museum that had pledged to dedicate itself to the history of women in the East End, formerly one of the poorest parts of the city, opened its doors as a Jack the Ripper museum instead.